Sampling the Wines and Art of Portugal and Spain

At year's end, I'm always taken aback by the articles I intended to write, but failed to deliver. I will try to catch up before the bell tolls on NYE. This is a draft article about a fabulous trip I just found from months ago.

 In the Fall of 2024, my friend May and I spent ten days reveling in the people, landscapes, art and wines of Potugal and Spain. The Rioja and Duoro wine valleys of the two countries are as spectacular as the wines we sampled for ten days, many times twice a day.

Rioja Wine Region Portugal

Portugal's Rioja is the only wine region to be honored with a UNESCO world heritage rating. It's not surprising when you sample the port wines in Porto, the rich reds of the region, and green wines made from green grapes. The steep hillsides of the rocky terrain where vineyards are planted allow the roots to tap into a unique blend of minerals from the soil. Government requirements are strict about organic farming and wine-making, to ensure only the finest wines receive approval. 

Spain's wine museum is another stop worth a visit, along with massive, modern wine facilities. In  one, the long rows of barrels and shining stainless steel vats could fill a hangar that houses unto a dozen jumbo jets.  Family wineries, many with generations of ownership, and some with ancient, extensive cellars under an entire village, are a treat for touring as well, all courtesy of Wine Knows Travel for our trip. 

 

In addition to our early visit to lovely, leafy Lisbon, we were blown away by the idyllic setting and tasty treats of San Sebastian, a final stop after the wine tour. A glorious and pristine crescent bay stretches from one end of downtown to the other, much of it bordered by ornamental, white wrought iron fencing. reminiscent of another era of this resort destination. The beach hugs the water in a perfect arc of light-colored sand, unlike our SoCal beaches which tend to run in a straight line from one end to the other. Walkways and a tree-lined boardwalk stretch along the shore. Elegant buildings, many with architectural styles of bygone days, overlook the bustling boulevard. Our condo was steps from floral gardens with benches, a fountain, and sculptures decorating the seascape. 

San Sebastian from the Castle

The cuisine of the city did not disappoint. Since San Sebastián is known as the culinary destination of Spain, we were given a long list of recommended places (at least two with Michelin stars), and learned about Pinxtos (designer appetizers) and Txakoli (sparkly mix of cava, other liquor), served at all the busy bars. Patrons point to their selections and stand to eat, drink, and chat in the lively atmosphere. The San Telmo Basque Museum in Old Town tells the story of early settlers who made their living from the water -- fishing, building boats, and supplying the industry. The giant sepia-toned murals capture the hardships and accomplishments of the industrious seaside community. After rifling through posters of fancy cinema festivals in more modern times, May and I left for lunch nearby. I finished my octopus salad when a wicked rainstorm forced passersby to crowd against the restaurant's floor-to-ceiling windows for cover. We would later learn the havoc was caused by Hurricane Kirk, which took a direct hit on San Sebastian. After the storm appeared to die down a bit, we left for the condo, winding our way through cobblestone streets as the wind whipped at us and rain soaked through us. We dashed into shops the whole way back. A less dramatic lunch followed the next day when we took the vehicular up to an old castle for lunch and a view of the town below. 

The town of Bilbao is the financial capital of Spain, but tourists know it best as the location of the Guggenheim Museum designed by an award-winning architect, Frank Ghery of Los Angeles. The sweeping silver exterior is similar to Disney Hall's golden curves in downtown LA, also by Ghery.

 Our favorite exhibit was a special installation by Japanese artist Yoshitomo Nara which showcased illustrations, paintings, sculptures, and a replica of his boyhood home, covering four decades of art from childhood through adulthood. It was especially poignant, given Nara's isolation as a boy who stayed home in a small, remote village while his parents worked. Many paintings depicted children with oversized heads and eyes, suggesting cartoon characters. He had a passion for music, displayed in one illustration of a boy's crammed notes and doodles of musicians he admired. The entire museum is an architectural feat inside and out, with familiar modern artists in the permanent collection. We took it all in until our legs and feet begged for a break. The afternoon of art in a world class museum was a fitting ending to our vibrant vacation in Portugal and Spain.